91ÒùĸÊÓƵ

I grew up in a cooking household. Our kitchen was always stocked with staples — ingredients tucked into every cupboard and freezer space. But there are three ever-present containers that still line the backsplash next to the stove at my parents’ house: salt, sugar and MSG. This was the trifecta so essential that the lids were often left askew. 

While salt and sugar are mainstays of most kitchens, monosodium glutamate (MSG) has long been an ingredient of controversy, enough that menus and storefronts of some Chinese restaurants from the 1970s into the ’90s went so far as to advertise “No MSG” to worried diners. Misconceptions about its negative health effects still linger. 

But MSG is simply a form of glutamate — a naturally occurring amino acid. And the science is clear: it’s a safe, effective way to enhance flavour. 91ÒùĸÊÓƵers at the U of A are exploring ways to use it to improve the diets and lives of people who have trouble eating. Here’s what you need to know.

Get to know the origin story

In 1908 found that adding kombu (seaweed) to his dashi broth made it richer and more savoury. Curious, he traced the flavour to glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid found in foods like tomatoes, mushrooms and seaweed. By isolating glutamic acid and combining it with sodium to create monosodium glutamate, Ikeda coined the term umami (the “fifth taste” alongside sweet, salty, sour and bitter). It was commercialized in 1909 under the brand Ajinomoto and marketed as a way to enhance bland foods.

More than a century later, researchers continue to explore how MSG interacts with taste and nutrition. Laura Lopez-Aldana is a graduate student in Food Science and Technology in the Faculty of Agricultural, Life & Environmental Sciences (ALES). She’s working with co-supervisors Wendy Wismer and Marleny Saldana to pinpoint how MSG can aid in the palatability of soft textured foods for people with swallowing disorders. So, if the flavouring agent has more than 100 years of research behind it, where’s the controversy?

Chew on the facts

MSG’s negative reputation began with one letter to the editor of a journal — not a scientific study.

In 1968 Ho Man Kwok, a Chinese-American pediatrician, wrote a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine after eating at Chinese restaurants in the U.S. — things like heart palpitations and dizziness. He speculated on a few possible causes, including high sodium content and cooking wine. He also mentioned that some had suggested high doses of MSG might also be a factor.

The journal’s editor titled his letter Chinese Restaurant Syndrome and by the standards of the day, the letter went viral. Diners began questioning restaurants and requesting their dishes without MSG, and those “No MSG” signs started appearing at restaurants to assuage the uncertainty. 

Despite decades of scientific research confirming MSG’s safety, including from the , and why does the stigma linger? In short, racism. Journalist Ann Hui explains in her book Chop Suey Nation that a long history of negative sentiment towards Chinese immigration and racial bias shaped how Chinese cuisine was perceived. Despite its origins and being a common ingredient in other foods like canned soups, pizza and flavoured corn chips (think Doritos), the stigma around MSG was largely associated with Chinese cuisine and restaurants.

Get to know the science

Linda Ho, ’04 BSc, ’06 BSc(Nutr/FoodSc), ’09 MSc, ’16 PhD, is a food scientist and Applied 91ÒùĸÊÓƵ Chair in Agri-Food Sustainability at NAIT’s . She explains that MSG is simply sodium bound to glutamate. When added to food, MSG dissolves into its basic components, just as table salt (NaCl) breaks down into sodium and chloride. 

“In essence, all flavours are chemicals,” Ho explains. “They attach to different receptors to evoke flavour. It’s not unnatural — you can find it naturally in food.”

But what about the rule of avoiding ingredients we can’t pronounce? Ho laughs. “Well, I’m a scientist — I can pronounce almost everything!” She points out that just because a scientific name sounds complex doesn’t mean it’s harmful. After all, water’s chemical name is dihydrogen monoxide. “It’s more about fear of the unknown and not understanding what those compounds actually are.”

And yet a in studies of MSG. Health Canada says that people with asthma may experience bronchospasm. Others have had allergy symptoms, such as hives or nasal congestion. These symptoms are temporary, mild and based on studies in which people had consumed three to five grams of MSG on an empty stomach without food, more than in a typical meal.

But these are studies of large doses of MSG that affected a few people. What about the rest of the worried public who once reported symptoms?

“There are many possibilities,” Ho says. “Stress could play a role, or even the placebo effect — if you expect to feel sick, your body might respond accordingly. It could be histamine in foods. Shrimp, for example, is high in histamine and can cause rashes in some people. And honestly, overeating plays a role too.”

She emphasizes that no convincing evidence links MSG to severe illness, serious reactions or mortality. 

“Dosage is key,” Ho says. The same logic applies to other substances. Spinach has oxalates that can contribute to the formation of kidney stones in some people who eat too much of it. Excess beta-carotene from too many carrots can give your skin an orange hue. Too much salt can raise blood pressure. “Anything can be toxic in the wrong amount, even water.”

Embrace the umami

MSG is a flavour booster that home cooks can add to just about any savoury dish, from stir-fries and soups to broths and marinades. 

Ho explains that MSG enhances umami, by activating taste receptors on the tongue. Scientists once believed that different taste receptors were confined to specific areas of the tongue: sweet at the tip, bitter at the back. However, additional research has shown that , and some people have more than others. MSG specifically targets umami receptors, intensifying savoury flavours and making food taste richer and more satisfying.

In the Faculty of ALES, Lopez-Aldana notes that MSG contains less sodium than salt, making it a useful tool for lowering sodium intake without sacrificing taste. “You can replace some of the salt with MSG to cut sodium while still enhancing flavour,” she explains. That said, it’s best to stick to no more than a teaspoon per day — . MSG enhances most flavours, except bitterness.

And, while making food more delicious is a great reason to cook with MSG, it also has other real-world implications. Lopez-Aldana is exploring MSG’s potential in innovative food applications. She is studying how it could be used to improve the taste and texture of 3D-printed foods for people with dysphagia (difficulty swallowing). 

Many people with dysphagia, Lopez-Aldana explains, also suffer from malnutrition and depression. 

“Many currently available dysphagia-friendly foods are unappetizing. Imagine just having to eat bland, mushy food for the rest of your life,” she says. “And if the food isn’t the right texture, they can choke.” Using 3D printing, she and her graduate co-supervisors Wismer and Saldana are redesigning these foods to be more appealing while maintaining the right texture. 

“Certain tastes, like sourness and umami, have been shown to improve swallowing,” she explains. MSG enhances umami by activating the T1R1 and T1R3 taste receptors, which increase saliva flow and heighten the perception of savoury foods. This research could lead to more enjoyable and effective dietary solutions for people with swallowing difficulties. 

MSG was misunderstood for decades, but the science is clear: it’s safe, naturally occurring and a simple way to enhance flavour. It’s also a perfect example of how chemistry, taste perception and culture come together in what we eat. 

Understanding the science behind our food makes us better cooks, more informed eaters, and maybe even a little more adventurous in the kitchen. So go ahead — embrace the umami.